If your child’s height falls in a different size than their width measurements on our size chart, you will likely want to add or subtract length, otherwise you may end up with an unintended belly peeking out or sleeves hanging past their hands.
Sure, you could just bring up or lower the hem when cutting to make your adjustment, but depending on how fitted the upper half of your garment is, you may have trouble in the armscye and the waist.
I’m going to show you the 3 places on the bodice you’ll want to add or subtract length: mid-armscye (the arm hole that the sleeve attaches to), waist line, and the hem. Note that any changes to the armscye will have to be reciprocated on the sleeve cap (top portion of the sleeve)! I’ll show you 3 places to adjust there too.
This is best illustrated with examples, and I’ll discuss 1 of 2 methods to adjust height.
First, this method involves using more ink because you be will printing out 2 different sizes, but the benefit is that it takes more of the guesswork out of the armscye.
For Example: If your child fits the size 2 for width but size 4 for height, you will print out both sizes of the pattern (desired width 2 is shown in pink, desired height 4 is shown in blue).
Draw 3 lines on the size 2: through approximately the middle of the armscye, straight out from the waist marking, and about 2-3” above bottom hem. Cut along each line.
Slide some new paper underneath these pieces because you’ll be retracing at these 3 lines.
Start at the armscye line and move the top piece vertically until the height matches the armscye of the size 4. If you were shortening the pattern, you would just move the pieces vertically to overlap until the desired height.
Now the remaining length should be adjusted evenly at the waist and hem lines, so spread the bottom 2 pieces vertically until they match the length of the desired height piece.
Now you can tape down and retrace your pattern piece, trueing the side seams (smoothing out any jagged lines created by the adjustments).
Now let’s adjust the sleeve. Draw 3 lines: at approximately mid sleeve cap, at the short sleeve cut line, and 2-3″ above the hem. Cut along these lines.
Now you’ll adjust the sleeve cap by moving the top piece to match the desired height, just like you did with the armscye of the bodice.
Divide the remaining height of the sleeve between the 2 lower pieces, by spreading them out vertically until they match your desired height.
Don’t forget to retrace your new sleeve pattern!
We’ll discuss the second method in an upcoming blog post.
